06_2011 Peru Part IV - Huaraz and climbing Chopicalqui
We spent a nice rest day in Huaraz after descending from the Ishinca valley. I was feeling a bit better being at a lower elevation and I think the antibiotics were helping. Quinn started feeling a little sketchy, so we went to the emergency clinic to get him some antibiotics just in case.
We had about 6 days left in the trip, so we sat down and discussed options along with considering conditions on various mountains in the range. Since the previous weeks had dropped considerable snow on the range, the face routes on most of the mountains were not safe due to extensive avalanches. Instead we decided to head to a peak named Chopicalqui. This beautiful mountain boasts an aesthetic and long ridge climb to its 6,345 meter / 20,817’ summit.
The next day we sorted out our gear and packed as light as possible for a 4-5 day adventure. This time there were no burros or camp cooks, just the 4 of us going as light as possible. We took an incredibly scenic 3 hour bumpy cab ride to the “trail head”, which is just a small trail that heads off from a hairpin turn on the dirt road that seems to go on forever…
When the cab left we felt pretty isolated as we headed up into the valley to our first camp – a fairly easy hike of about an hour from the road. On the way to our first camp we passed another group’s base camp that has literally been destroyed by aggressive cows grazing in the area. We decided to camp a few hundred feet higher in a tiny meadow as high as we can find running water.
The weather was great, the views of the surrounding high peaks were amazing and our spirits were high. Being in a quiet valley all to ourselves with amazing peaks all around – this is what we came for! We looked up at the summit of Chopicalqui, about 6,000’ above us and realized we’ve got some major effort ahead of us. We all slept pretty well now that we are pretty used to camping at 14,000+’, but we have to take turns in the night and early am to chase the crazy cows from our campsite. They are surprisingly aggressive, but no real damage was done before we left the camp the next morning…
We woke up to fantastic views and had a relatively leisurely morning as the frost melted from our tents. We contemplated the roughly 4 hour hike up to moraine camp at just over 16,000’. The hike up was steep and exposed in parts and our 40+ pound packs created a lot of heavy breathing. As I started to lag behind the others part way up, I realized I was nowhere near over my illness. I coughed and hacked my way to camp. Our camp spot was in an incredible location with amazing views of several high peaks in the area. We could hear and sometimes see avalanches on several of the peaks, reminding us that our selection of a ridge route was the way to go at this point in the season.
Our plan was to get up at 10:30pm after whatever sleep we managed and head up. By climbing through the night we hoped to be traveling on consolidated snow and ice to allow faster progress. If all went well, we hoped to summit at about 8am in the morning. We knew this would be quite challenging, but overall it seemed to be less work than establishing yet another camp at about 18,000’ and going from there. So, we had a basic mountaineering kind of dinner, took in the view and headed to our tents for a few hours of rest/sleep.
We got up at 10:30pm to a nice bright moon, packed up and headed out. The lack of sleep was felt by all, but we made pretty good progress through the night. We traveled as a team of 4 on a single rope. I was in the #2 position and I was able to keep up the pace fairly well, but required a major effort. We stopped for a snack and some water about every hour. The terrain included steep sections up to about 50 degrees and the snow was only partly consolidated, so we had to take care to ensure our footing and ice axe placements were relatively secure as we moved upward in the darkness.
Just after dawn and some amazing lighting, we arrived at the base of a fairly steep section. We were at about 19,700’ at this point (about 6:45am). We all met up at a stance at the base of the steep section and assessed the situation. I realized that at this point, I was running near empty and my infected lungs were struggling for oxygen. Quinn was unfortunately feeling the effects of altitude and looked a bit weathered as well. Andy and Alex were doing ok, so they decided to press on, Quinn and I decided it would be best if we headed down.
So, disappointed, but not for lack of trying, Quinn and I started down the slopes we just climbed. We turned back from time to time and see Andy and Alex continuing up. We took a few hours to reach moraine camp, where we tried to rest and eat. We were both coughing a bunch and feeling marginal. A few hours later we saw Andy and Alex coming down to camp. We hoped they had successfully reached the summit, but they tell us they turned back when their progress became too slow and snow conditions were a bit sketchy…
All of us had lost our appetite due to altitude to some extent, but we basically forced down a dinner and crashed hard in our tents just after sunset. It had been a very long day/night/day for sure. In the morning, Quinn and I still felt pretty darn rough, so we decided to descend and head back to town. Andy and Alex re grouped and decided to try again, this time using a higher camp as well.
We gave them a bunch of food and headed down the valley where we hitched a series of rides back to Huaraz. The next day Quinn and I knocked around Huaraz trying to feel better. We had a good time checking out new areas of town then headed for dinner. After dinner, we ran into Andy and Alex who had successfully summitted very early that morning and made it all the way back to town the same day – excellent job!!
On our last day, Quinn and I went for a day hike in another beautiful valley and Andy and Alex rested and hung out. In the morning, we headed to the bus station and take the long bus ride back to the very 3rd world city of Lima. We headed right to the airport, had a few celebratory beers and the 3 of them headed to their gate and flight. My flight was in the very early morning, so I enjoyed a “bivy” on the floor of the Lima airport.
Everybody’s flights went fine and before we knew it, we were all back to “reality” in Boulder. I was home 3 days before starting a new full time job. Overall, it was a great trip to an amazing and beautiful mountain range. The locals were wonderful and we all have many fond memories. Who knows, perhaps I will return someday and hopefully have a healthier trip to the Cordillera Blanca… I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the stories from our adventure. Cheers – Dave.
We spent a nice rest day in Huaraz after descending from the Ishinca valley. I was feeling a bit better being at a lower elevation and I think the antibiotics were helping. Quinn started feeling a little sketchy, so we went to the emergency clinic to get him some antibiotics just in case. 
We had about 6 days left in the trip, so we sat down and discussed options along with considering conditions on various mountains in the range. Since the previous weeks had dropped considerable snow on the range, the face routes on most of the mountains were not safe due to extensive avalanches. Instead we decided to head to a peak named Chopicalqui. This beautiful mountain boasts an aesthetic and long ridge climb to its 6,345 meter / 20,817’ summit.
The next day we sorted out our gear and packed as light as possible for a 4-5 day adventure. This time there were no burros or camp cooks, just the 4 of us going as light as possible. We took an incredibly scenic 3 hour bumpy cab ride to the “trail head”, which is just a small trail that heads off from a hairpin turn on the dirt road that seems to go on forever… 
When the cab left we felt pretty isolated as we headed up into the valley to our first camp – a fairly easy hike of about an hour from the road. On the way to our first camp we passed another group’s base camp that has literally been destroyed by aggressive cows grazing in the area. We decided to camp a few hundred feet higher in a tiny meadow as high as we can find running water. 
The weather was great, the views of the surrounding high peaks were amazing and our spirits were high. Being in a quiet valley all to ourselves with amazing peaks all around – this is what we came for! We looked up at the summit of Chopicalqui, about 6,000’ above us and realized we’ve got some major effort ahead of us. We all slept pretty well now that we are pretty used to camping at 14,000+’, but we have to take turns in the night and early am to chase the crazy cows from our campsite. They are surprisingly aggressive, but no real damage was done before we left the camp the next morning…
We woke up to fantastic views and had a relatively leisurely morning as the frost melted from our tents. We contemplated the roughly 4 hour hike up to moraine camp at just over 16,000’. The hike up was steep and exposed in parts and our 40+ pound packs created a lot of heavy breathing. As I started to lag behind the others part way up, I realized I was nowhere near over my illness. I coughed and hacked my way to camp. Our camp spot was in an incredible location with amazing views of several high peaks in the area. We could hear and sometimes see avalanches on several of the peaks, reminding us that our selection of a ridge route was the way to go at this point in the season.
Our plan was to get up at 10:30pm after whatever sleep we managed and head up. By climbing through the night we hoped to be traveling on consolidated snow and ice to allow faster progress. If all went well, we hoped to summit at about 8am in the morning. We knew this would be quite challenging, but overall it seemed to be less work than establishing yet another camp at about 18,000’ and going from there. So, we had a basic mountaineering kind of dinner, took in the view and headed to our tents for a few hours of rest/sleep.
We got up at 10:30pm to a nice bright moon, packed up and headed out. The lack of sleep was felt by all, but we made pretty good progress through the night. We traveled as a team of 4 on a single rope. I was in the #2 position and I was able to keep up the pace fairly well, but required a major effort. We stopped for a snack and some water about every hour. The terrain included steep sections up to about 50 degrees and the snow was only partly consolidated, so we had to take care to ensure our footing and ice axe placements were relatively secure as we moved upward in the darkness.
Just after dawn and some amazing lighting, we arrived at the base of a fairly steep section. We were at about 19,700’ at this point (about 6:45am). We all met up at a stance at the base of the steep section and assessed the situation. I realized that at this point, I was running near empty and my infected lungs were struggling for oxygen. Quinn was unfortunately feeling the effects of altitude and looked a bit weathered as well. Andy and Alex were doing ok, so they decided to press on, Quinn and I decided it would be best if we headed down. 
So, disappointed, but not for lack of trying, Quinn and I started down the slopes we just climbed. We turned back from time to time and see Andy and Alex continuing up. We took a few hours to reach moraine camp, where we tried to rest and eat. We were both coughing a bunch and feeling marginal. A few hours later we saw Andy and Alex coming down to camp. We hoped they had successfully reached the summit, but they tell us they turned back when their progress became too slow and snow conditions were a bit sketchy…
All of us had lost our appetite due to altitude to some extent, but we basically forced down a dinner and crashed hard in our tents just after sunset. It had been a very long day/night/day for sure. In the morning, Quinn and I still felt pretty darn rough, so we decided to descend and head back to town. Andy and Alex re grouped and decided to try again, this time using a higher camp as well. 
We gave them a bunch of food and headed down the valley where we hitched a series of rides back to Huaraz. The next day Quinn and I knocked around Huaraz trying to feel better. We had a good time checking out new areas of town then headed for dinner. After dinner, we ran into Andy and Alex who had successfully summitted very early that morning and made it all the way back to town the same day – excellent job!!
On our last day, Quinn and I went for a day hike in another beautiful valley and Andy and Alex rested and hung out. In the morning, we headed to the bus station and take the long bus ride back to the very 3rd world city of Lima. We headed right to the airport, had a few celebratory beers and the 3 of them headed to their gate and flight. My flight was in the very early morning, so I enjoyed a “bivy” on the floor of the Lima airport. 
Everybody’s flights went fine and before we knew it, we were all back to “reality” in Boulder. I was home 3 days before starting a new full time job. Overall, it was a great trip to an amazing and beautiful mountain range. The locals were wonderful and we all have many fond memories. Who knows, perhaps I will return someday and hopefully have a healthier trip to the Cordillera Blanca… I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the stories from our adventure. Cheers – Dave.
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