After the long drive from City of Rocks ID, we finally arrived and made camp in Icicle Canyon outside of Leavenworth. The eastern Cascades are an interesting range combining alpine type weathered rock at low elevations. This area is also generally in the rain shadow of the Cascades.
A view of the approach hike up to the crags on our first day of climbing in Icicle Canyon. Steep but relatively short trails lead to the base of 200-400’ granite formations.
Me leading the crux 3rd pitch of Heart of Gold, a very cool 4 pitch 5.10c climb. Temps were nice early on, but it got hot fairly quickly. By the top pitch it was quite toasty and we were wishing for some shade.
Quinn following the crux pitch of Heart of Gold. Edges and bumps keep you on your toes, literally :)
On the summit of Heart of Gold – nice view, nice weather, although a bit on the warm side.
Our next target was a 3 pitch route called “Mexican Crack”, 5.10b. Some folks were on it in this picture, but they were basically out of the way by the time we got up there in mid afternoon.
Cool thin crack climbing on the crux 2nd pitch of Mexican Crack.
Quinn heading up the long 3rd pitch of Mexican Crack which leads to the top of the formation.
By the time we were high on the route, the wind had kicked up to a nasty howl – check out Quinn’s hair!
Our objective for the 2nd day of climbing in Leavenworth was a route called “Hyperspace” on the Snow Creek Wall. This 800’ high alpine wall is guarded by a somewhat strenuous 1.5 hour approach hike.
Crossing the creek before heading up the ramps/slabs to the base of Snow Creek Wall. Very different from your typical Rocky Mountain alpine approach.
At the base we were greeted by the locals – some fairly bold mountain goats. These guys were fun to watch, especially with their babies, but they were also a little aggressive. It was kind of weird that they liked to visit your pee spots post use for a little goat hydration…
The view towards Leavenworth from near the base of Snow Creek Wall.
This is the 5.11a/b thin finger crack on pitch 3 of Hyperspace. I had a little trouble with this pitch as the crack seamed out and forced you to do some committing off balance face climbing to reach better holds near the top of the pitch. Can you say “all warmed up now”? ;-)
Quinn leading the 5.9 4th pitch of Hyperspace – cool and airy climbing ending at a very exposed and small belay.
Me leading the 5.11a 5th pitch. This pitch had a bunch of tricky and strenuous corner climbing as well as some questionable rock – it kept my full attention! Good position, exposed!
For the 6th pitch, I opted for a 5.10b or so variation that climbed out of the Hyperspace corner system, around an arête, then traversed across a steep but knobby headwall to the amazing splitter crack pitches of “Outerspace” – probably the most popular route on the wall. This is a pic of another party coming up the crack on Outerspace.
Quinn leading the 7th pitch crack – really fun climbing and it leads to a really nice belay ledge!
Me coming up the 7th pitch – very cool position and views!
Leading the final and long 5.9 8th pitch that leads to the top. By the time I got to the summit, it was beginning to rain lightly, not exactly what we wanted since the descent is a somewhat complex series of ramps, slabs and gullies…
Quinn coming up the final section of the route. The approach trail can be seen way down behind him.
On the summit! With some wacky weather moving in quickly, there was no time to relax on top, time to get going on the descent!
The descent takes about 30 minutes if you make all the right choices, not too bad but not totally casual. The rain was very light so no problem there J
When we arrived back at the base, the goats were really checking out our stuff. Here is Quinn getting ready to fend them off ;-)
Cute goat family at the base!
On the hike out, the rain got quite heavy at times but a nice rainbow formed over Leavenworth…
Since it was raining when we got back to the car and town is only a few miles away, the clear choice was to go to the brew pub for dinner J It was a good choice as it rained almost all night at our campground. In the morning we would head for Squamish, our 3rd and final destination for the trip. :)
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