Tuesday, July 8, 2008

7/07/2008 The Needles - Day 7

We got up early on our last day with another plan. We headed out to the formation called the Outer Outlets to do a classic three-pitch Conn route. Herb and Jan Conn did a lot of development in Seneca Rocks before heading west where they put up many climbs. My understanding is that this couple is still going strong!



We did the 'grueling' ten minute approach to the quietest part of the Needles so far. One bummer about this place is the noise. There is a lot of noise. Endless Harleys drive by needlessly revving their engines. And if it isn't motorcycles, there is a parade of helicopters flying tourists over the Needles. It's a weird contrast to have the visual beauty of being in the middle of nowhere outdoors and at the same time to get the audio assault of man's noisiest machines. Super weird contrast.




The Outer Outlets were silent. And no others were around. It was lovely. Dave headed up the first pitch. This pitch was sort of like crawling among the incisors in the mouth of a giant dragon. It was fun.



Pitch two required an airy traverse followed by a slightly overhanging traverse on rocks that looked sketchy. No photos of this pitch. It just didn't lend itself to photos.



The last pitch included a crazy move under a roof into a chimney. It was a leg dangler. Then one headed up some crazy unprotected chimneying and finally into daylight. From here, it was a long but featured unprotected section to the top. Every pitch on this climb was completely different, and every pitch different from the ones we'd done the days before.





The summit was cool with some pools of critters and an excellent view of the surrounding landscape. We goofed off on the summit before rapping down, hiking out and heading home.





The drive was long and happily uneventful. It was nice getting home and seeing the birds. They were very happy to see us too. Henri flapped with joy so much he passed out. This is becoming his standard thing to do when we return. I'm glad he's happy, but I can live without his passing out.



7/06/2008 The Needles - Day 6

We woke up feeling lazy and tired so we lollygagged, had a nice oatmeal breakfast, lounged outside and goofed off until about noon. Then we drove to Sylvan Lake and checked out the general store. We got a new (1999) guidebook and checked it out. I got a new chickadee dee dee t-shirt. Very cool!



We had some lunch, then headed out to Photographer's Peak. Dave hadn't climbed there before. We did all five routes listed in the guide book. Everyone one of them was super fun. The first had a bizarre 'step-across' from one wall to the next.



Another one was a bit contrived at the top, but still fun. The sun offered some cool photo opportunities. I got a self shadow portrait of myself on top of "Underexposure" before rapping.







I really love this rock! It was a gorgeous day too. By the end of the fifth climb, we called it a day.



We took bird baths in the camper, then headed up to the Sylvan Lake Lodge for an adult beverage. It's a nice lodge, and a nice place to hang out and relax. We ended up ordering some calamari. Dave named it "Marie Calendar's Calamari". We both agreed that it was by far the worst calamari we'd ever eaten. Yet we ate every piece of it. Funny how climbing does that to a person. It was a great time!

We then headed back to our secret camp site and sat outside to enjoy the evening. It was minutes before the thunder started. Then the rain. Then the hail. Dave says it ALWAYS rains at the Needles. This trip was no exception to that rule. Happily, it was still allowing us to climb though.



7/05/2008 Devil's Tower and the Needles - Day 5

We got up early with a plan today. We were headed to climb the classic El Matador and then drive to the Needles in South Dakota.

We headed over to register at the climbing ranger office. I'd reported the deceased falcon via paper the night before and wondered if they'd received it. The ranger said that people had reported a falcon down the day before with a broken leg. We directed them to where they could find the little guy's body. They suspected it was the daddy falcon. Very very sad.



We hiked up to El Matador happy it was still cool, though still humid. We got to the base and found no other parties. Yay us! I lead the first pitch (5.8) and Dave followed. It was a very fun lead.

The next pitch was the business. 150 feet straight up the equivalent of a three-sided elevator shaft. Dave flew up it in perfect form.

I looked left at the left wall. I looked right and the right wall. Then I looked at my legs. I didn't think it was possible for me to stem as needed. Gulp.

I started up. The initial part of the climb is in a crack on the left side. It wasn't my "best" crack size. I got up a ways and flew out of the crack like a suicidal lemming. After many attempts and cursing, I got past this section and layed back the crack like a crazed person.

I obviously hadn't learned my lesson from Carol's Crack.



I went until I oozed out of the lay back and then 'assumed the position'. It was tedious. It was slow. It was hard. My face rubbed against the wall. My arms were too short. I was too weak. Gack.



Minutes after starting this, my body obviously shunted all blood out of my brain to my muscles. I couldn't even speak.



I finally made it to the top with the hollowed look of a someone who'd just seen a ghost. I made it though. Dave lowered me and I checked myself out for major gore wounds. Clearly, El Matador had gored me. Hard.

We hiked out and returned to the ranger station. At Devil's Tower, climbers are required to register when the head up to climb, and to check in when they return. While in the station, a woman tourist looked at me and said "Did I just see you up there climbing?" I said "Yes". She said "How can you walk after that?" It was pretty funny! My legs, arms and rump ached the rest of the day.

We hopped in the truck. We headed to South Dakota for some climbing at the Needles. When we mentioned to others we were going to the Needles, the comment was always the same: That place is scary. I wondered what was in store for me.



The drive to the Needles is quite pleasant. It didn't seem to take long at all.
When we arrived in the Needles, we immediately hiked up to do Tricouni and Tent Peg - two climbings in the Ten Pins area. They were both really fun! I love the rock here. It's got great friction, it's hard and most importantly, it SPARKLES. It really does. It's really beautiful.





Next, I finally got to experience "the rap". I'd long heard of the rap, but now I was on top of the Tricouni and I had to do it. One places the rope on top of the tiny summit. Dave is connected to one side of the rope ready to rappel, and I'm connected to the other side. Our bodies act as counterweights to the other. Then we rap. Whoa. Mentally it was freaky. In practice it worked well.



We called it a day and headed to our camp site. To get there, we had to go through one of the Needles crazy tunnels. The thing is TINY. Buses drive through this! I am glad it was Dave and not me driving at the time we had to go through this crazy tunnel!





We found our secluded camp site, made dinner and enjoyed the evening. It rained during the night.






7/04/2008 Devil's Tower - Day 4

Today was really hot and humid again. Our plan was to lounge around camp for most of the day, then take off around 4 pm and summit. At the summit, we'd have dinner and watch the KOA fireworks show. We'd heard they were quite nice.

We lounged like pros. The cat lounged like a pro. Pente discovered bugs on this trip and spent a lot of time pouncing them in the tall grass. As far as I saw, no bugs were injured or died during these episodes. Well, except one fly that appears to have been eaten. At least it wasn't wasted. It was so hot we hopped in the outdoor shower for cold showers more than once.




Finally, we cooked and packed up our dinner and hiked over. It was still broiling hot. We hiked around the base, climbed the talus field and sat in the shade waiting for the sun to move around the tower so our climb would be shaded. We sat at the base of the "bowling alley". Sadly, 5' from where we sat was the body of one of the Tower's falcons. He was freshly deceased. The tower had just opened on July 1 for the voluntary closure to respect Native Americans. During this same time, the falcons nest so it's helpful for them as well. I assumed the fledglings had just recently fledged. It was a sad sight to see such a beautiful bird dead on the ground.

We traversed around to the base of the climb we planned to do (Soler) on the east face. It was a complete chumblespuzz madhouse here. Gear everywhere. Varmits in packs. Climbers screaming. Rappelling epics. On our route were two climbers that were moving so slowly that I estimated had they gone any slower they would be climbing backward.

We finally headed up.



The climb was two pitches followed by one very long bush-whacking plus chimney pitch to the top.



The top of the tower is as large as a football field and it slopes downward toward all edges. It actually presents an optical illusion in that it appears as though one is just on top of a rolling hill connected to the surrounding rolling hills. There was not a flat spot that we could see. The only way one can tell they are on the tower (without peering over the edge) is to notice the shadow of it on the surrounding landscape. Pretty cool.



We signed the summit register. I wasn't compelled to write much given the previous juvenile entries. It is one thing to slander in a joking fashion in a register, but some of these entries were just gross. Meh.







We then checked out Foster's 1941 stash of cans. On October 1st, 1941, Foster parachuted and landed on top of the tower. Unfortunately, he didn't plan his retreat from the top of the tower as well as he planned his jump. He ended up spending six days on top of the tower exposed to rain, snow wind and general unpleasantness. During that time, plans dropped him some food and the cans remain. Pretty cool to see these undisturbed. Hopefully they stay that way.

In 1941 Foster sat on the top of Devil's Tower. In 2008, we brought our own Fosters!

We found a nice rock to sit on and had our potsticker dinner, beer and gatorade fine cuisine. Six additional people summited while we were there, though four of them left before dark. The other two were there to watch the fireworks as well. They hauled up a large watermelon to the top to celebrate which we all enjoyed.







The fireworks display was nice and and the perspective cool. We looked down at the fireworks! The choreography of the show had us a laughing a bit though. At least twice I got up because I thought it was over. As we'd start moving, they'd start up again.

Finally it was dark and the fireworks were really over. We needed to rap the tower on an unfamiliar rap. I hoped we wouldn't end up spending the night dangling on the side of the tower. Happily that wasn't the case. The first rap was a pain because the wind was blasting. We pulled the rope and it got stuck. This is the rap we were told "it looks bad, but the rope never gets stuck." Dave had to climb up in the pitch dark hunting for the rope and unstick it. This required some 5.6 chimneying. It was "like fun but different." Happily, he retrieved the rope and got back to the belay station. Many raps later, we were on the ground hiking back to camp. It was late and we were tired.

We showered when we returned to camp at 1 am. It was a really fun way to spend the 4th of July though we both agreed that seeing the fireworks up there once is enough.



7/03/2008 Devil's Tower - Day 3



Twelve solid hours of sleep later, we got out of bed. It was great and much needed sleep for both of us. Not a train horn sounded all night.

On the agenda today was Carol's Crack and New Wave. We had plans to possibly do additional climbs, but it didn't turn out that way. The air was a bit more clear and it did not look like rain at all. Hurrah!

We didn't take many photos while climbing today for some reason. We got several before and after the climbs, but almost no 'action shots.'



The first pitch of Carol's crack is an easy 5.10a. Um. Okay. Not so easy. That crack sucked me in, bit down hard, chewed me up, and spit me out! Egads. I fell several times at the crux (is there a crux on that pitch?). The pitch felt so insecure and harder than anything we'd done the day before. I dreamed of being on Mr. Clean again. I did finally get to the belay though I was pretty concerned about my ability to get to the top of pitch two. Pitch 2 was another 160 feet of harder climbing. Gack.

I look pretty whooped at the top of the first pitch of Carol's Crack...



Dave took off leading this pitch. BTW, this pitch is described in the guidebook has having no rests. Very accurate. He made it to the top clean though I heard a lot of "self-coaching". He climbed well and the "positive" reinforcement he used on himself was pretty entertaining. (See the video of Dave at the top of the pitch - it's posted below).

I wasn't feeling very optimistic at all. I figured at least I could start by stemming and when it was too hard, I could lay back the rest of the pitch. I mean, how long is 160 feet anyway? I'm a strong lay-back-climber...



Yeah, well, not strong enough.

I started climbing and by the first move I was in a layback. Go! Go! Go! Go! I told myself. Gasp! Gack! Go... goo...goooo... ack...falling! I had charged up that pitch in a fury. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw how far I'd made it. I only had about 150 feet more to go. What? It must have been a sight of arms and legs flailing around and no progress. How Dave kept from laughing I won't ever know.

I wrestled this pitch for what seemed an eternity until I just couldn't move any more. It took a while, but I finally waved my white flag of defeat and had to be lowered to the belay. Absolute defeat. Crushed by Carol's Crack. Carol was a badass.




It was massively humid so we sat at the base of the climb and relaxed. And broiled in the sun. Finally, we moved around the corner to a shady spot to a two-pitch climb called New Wave. It was a really fun climb. Not a gimme, but not a soul-crusher like that wench Carol. The crux did punish me, but aside from that all went well and was enjoyable.

We spent some time at the top of the second pitch on the "Teacher's Lounge" enjoying the view. Happily, the smoke was dissipating and we could see into the distance quite a bit better than we could the day before.

We rapped down, hiked out and got back to camp. We took some glorious out-door showers then chowed down on some jethro-sized bowls of macaroni and cheese.

I may not be at the university any longer, but I'm still getting a lot of schooling! Another great day.






7/02/2008 Devil's Tower - Day 2

We got up early and headed out. The weather was pretty except a bit hazy. This turned out to be a result of not only the California wild fires, but also Canadian wild fires. We drove straight to the tower. As we arrived, the sky was threatening rain. We decided to head up and climb as much as we could anyway. I doubted we'd get anything but the hike to the base completed. Turns out I was wrong though.



We ended up climbing three routes: McCarthy's West Face (1st pitch), Tulgey Wood (2 pitches) and Mr. Clean (2 pitches). We didn't plan on getting high given that is was threatening to rain (and did rain on us though we ignored it). :)



To my surprise given the complete lack of crimpers, I did every pitch clean, no hangs, no falls, no whimpering. Dave of course cruised them all in style. I even lead the first pitch of Mr. Clean. It was fun - it'd been a while since trad leading and finally I had someone to critique my gear placement. Mr. Clean was crazy long - 160' of non-stop climbing. At the top, I was making some noise, though it wasn't whining. When I got to the top, Dave asked "How'd you like it?" All I could utter was "painful". He lowered me and in about 20 minutes, my brain began functioning again and I could speak more than one word at a time. It was a great climb.



We drove to Frank Sander's property and set up the camper. His place is walking distance from the Tower and evidentially a hang-out for climbers. We got to meet Frank and others. Everyone was awesome. I was completely zonked from the climbing and cratered after fighting sleep. I made it all the way to 8:30pm.





7/01/2008 To Devil's Tower and the Needles - Day 1

Dave and I worked in the morning, packed the truck and headed out. We knew we wouldn't make it all the way to Devil's Tower, but we'd get close. Besides, he knew it'd be nice to drive up on it in the early morning light instead of missing it by arriving in the dark. The weather was nice with few winds and the trip went fast. We ended up sleeping in the camper at a rest area. I have slept in many rest areas and this one takes the prize for the noisiest rest area anywhere. It had freeway noise, but also dueling train horns all night! What is it with train horns when we are trying to sleep?